Find all the information you need below to grow peas with peace of mind:
Germination:
Pea seeds are quite large, so don’t be alarmed to see a big orb emerging from the rockwool. It’s normal for seeds to be pushed out during sprouting.
Seeds germinate quickly, usually within 7 days. Don’t pull off the large seed casing - it’s not worth the risk of damaging the baby leaves, which will naturally push the casing off themselves.
Peas germinate best at temperatures over 70F.
Thin down to one plant when sprouts are 1 - 2” tall.
Food and Drink:
Like all plants, peas do best when the water tank is regularly topped off and changed. While topping off can tide them over, replacing the water in the tank at least once per month with fresh H2O and nutrients can keep the nutrient ratios and pH balance within range.
Optimum Environment:
Peas are relatively hardy and can thrive in a range of environments, but generally, they’re a cool-weather crop. Air temperatures in the low 70s with humidity levels in the 55 - 60% range are best for peas. Hot weather for consecutive days can foul the peas' sweet flavor.
Special Care:
Peas can grow large and will need trellising. Do not trellis peas around the lights as this will burn the plants. Peas will grow tendrils as they mature. These are the long-reaching strings coming from their branches. Peas are generally ready for trellising when they’re 6 - 8” long.
These tendrils are what peas use to hook and support themselves. Encourage tendrils to wrap around the Gardyn Plant Belt, or trellis of your choice, to support the growth of your peas. You may need to adjust and move the plant strap up the column as the pea plant matures.
Multiple vines may form from one plant and may require support from multiple plant straps. Because of this, it’s best to start your peas on the bottom sections of the Gardyn Home.
Slots marked green are best for your peas. Use the plant strap to help encourage peas to grow up along the column. Yellow slots can work, but don’t leave much room for growth. Red slots are too high on the Gardyn to support pea growth. There isn’t enough room for using the plant strap.
As the plant grows larger, you may want to prune back the smaller branches near the base. If left unchecked, these secondary branches can grow and take over the entire canopy. It’s best to leave flowering sites and cut back new branches once flowers start to form. This encourages the plant to allocate its resources and energy to pod production.
Pollination:
Like other fruits and vegetables, peas form their pods from flowers. When growing these plants indoors, we have to be the bee or the wind that pollinates them. When you see flowers, swirl the inside with a cotton swab, paintbrush, or the tip of your finger to pollinate them.
Do this daily as your peas flower and they will eventually bear tasty peas.
Pod Development:
Pods form from the flower shortly after the flower is pollinated. They start out flat and slowly grow and plump as they reach maturity. Pods are ready to harvest when they’re still swelling. This is when they’re at their ripe tenderness and sweetness - before their sugars convert to starch.
Harvest & eat quickly after
To harvest, simply clip the mature pod at the stem. Remove the string from pods before cooking. Peas will quickly lose flavor within hours of harvesting, so they are best enjoyed fresh. Pods are typically eaten raw, sautéed, or steamed.